时代周刊：世界顶级名厨推动海产品可持续运动

　　

　　在面对海洋主要商品鱼种类由于过渡捕捞将于2050年前消失的报道，许多喜欢吃海产品的美食家一直在考虑现在是否是放弃他们对鱼类偏好的时候。各国政府未采取足够措施来缓解这方面的担心，它们基本上未采取更为严格的措施，而法国、西班牙、意大利等沿海国家则为保持现状进行游说。但是目前，越来越多的顶极名厨已不再等待他们的领导人改变方向。法国著名大厨奥利维-罗林格称：“如果政治家们不想采取行动，那么作为大厨和消费者的我们就应采取行动以改善局面。”

　　像罗林格这样的大厨们在菜单上取消了濒危鱼类，烹制许多美食家从未听说过的在生态上安全的美味海产品物种，来推动可持续的海产品运动。

　　其中的一个开拓者是巴黎左岸的米其林星级餐厅奥古斯特。在这家于2005年开业的餐厅，菜谱上没有濒危的蓝鳍金枪鱼和鳕鱼。餐厅的上流社会顾客们享用的是用薄荷叶和很脆的面制糕点卷的鲽鱼鱼片、 口味细腻的用榛子油加工的鳗鱼塔塔、河虾、丝滑的乌贼片清炖肉汤、用椰奶和酸橙煮的绿青鳕鱼片。

　　奥古斯特餐厅老板、大厨加埃尔-奥里斯称，这些菜品在欧洲的一家美食家餐厅出现在过去是无法想象的。他说：“我在三星饭店工作的十五年期间可能只烹调了六种或者七种鱼，鲈鱼、比目鱼、安康鱼、红鲣、龙虾、鲽鱼，总是同样的鱼。但是作为餐厅老板，我们有可能，也有责任来鼓励我们的顾客迈向新方向。”

　　Eel, Not Tuna Europe's Top Chefs Push for Sustainable Seafood

　　Faced with reports that the ocean's major commercial fish species will disappear by 2050 due to overfishing, many seafood-loving gourmets have been wondering if it's time to abandon their penchant for pesce. Governments aren't doing much to assuage those fears, having largely failed to step up with stricter regulations, as coastal nations like France, Spain and Italy lobby for the status quo. But today, a growing number of top chefs aren't waiting for their leaders to change course. "If politicians don't want to take action," says renowned French chef Olivier Roellinger, "it's up to us as chefs and consumers to do what we can to improve things."

　　By scrapping endangered fish from their menus, and cooking up tasty eco-safe species many gastronomes have never heard of, chefs like Roellinger are launching a sustainable seafood movement, one recipe at a time。

　　Among the trailblazers is the Michelin-starred Auguste on Paris's left bank. At the restaurant, which opened in 2005, endangered bluefin tuna and codfish aren't on the menu. Instead, Auguste's upscale clientele dine on mise en bouches like goujonettes of megrim rolled in mint leaf and crispy brick pastry, spoons of delicate, hazelnut oil-livened conger eel tartare, followed by shrimp and galanga ginger consommé with silky cuttlefish slices and saithe fillet poached in coconut milk and lime。

　　Such dishes would once have been unimaginable in a European gourmet restaurant, admits Auguste's owner, chef Ga?l Orieux. "In 15 years working in three-star restaurants, I cooked maybe six or seven species of fish. Sea bass, turbot, monk fish, red mullet, lobster, sole — it was always the same," he says. "But as restaurant owners, we have the possibility — and responsibility — to encourage our clientele in new directions."

　　As the patron of the European campaign Mr. Goodfish, Orieux is working to highlight the numerous lesser-known or underappreciated seafood species that happen to be not only delicious but also — and more importantly — plentiful compared to their more "noble"' cousins. Launched earlier this year under the umbrella of the World Ocean Network, Mr. Goodfish draws together chefs, fishmongers, fishermen and scientists to promote a sustainable consumption of seafood products, and generate frequently updated recommended-species lists for professional chefs to refer to as they stock their kitchens。

　　Also leading the charge is Cancale-based chef Olivier Roellinger, who has used his vice-presidency of the luxury hotel and restaurant group Relais &Chateaux to convince chefs of the group's 500 sites around the world to commit to immediately banning bluefin tuna and, by the end of 2010, entirely eliminating endangered species from their menus. It's time to "sound the alarm," says Roellinger. "If we want our children to be able to still feed themselves from the ocean, we need to take action immediately."

　　But how much impact can one, or even 500, chefs have? A lot, says Stéphane Hénard, head of aquariology at France's Nausicaa sea center and coordinator for Mr. Goodfish. "Restaurants like Auguste ... are lighthouses that everyone navigates to," he says. "Thanks to them, we've been able to launch a movement that's spreading." Recent years have seen the emergence of fishing cooperatives like Lonxanet in Galicia, which has made sustainable fishing a value-added enterprise for its artisan fishermen. They cater to eco-minded chefs across Spain, like Pep Nogué and the Terra Madre cooks collective in Catalonia, who have organized Slow Cook Jam Sessions in Barcelona to improvise new recipes on the theme pescado sin precio (the undervalued fish). In France, the Nantes-based distributor Pêcheries Océanes, which handles some 30,000 tons of fish annually, recently partnered with Mr. Goodfish, committing to permanently carry a large selection of approved sustainable species, with another large international distributor said to be joining the campaign soon。

　　As the entrepreneurial chef Alain Ducasse says, the essential role chefs play in the movement is "to educate about the planet's limited resources, and how we can eat in new ways." So when Ducasse creates a 100% sustainable-fish menu for his newest Paris restaurant, Spoon, and serves a citrus-infused tartare of mackerel every bit as delicious as one of tuna or salmon, the benefit for the planet doesn't end at the door. "Imagine just in France, a country of 60 million people, if once a year everyone ate 300g of fish from non-endangered instead of endangered stocks," says oceanographer Philippe Vallette, co-President of the World Ocean Network. "You'd save 18,000 tons of endangered species."

　　More than fisherman, chefs and perhaps even politicians, "it's the average citizen who has the power to change things," says Vallette. "The consumer is the final link in the chain, and when the consumer changes his or her behavior, the whole chain has to follow — from the bottom up."

　　(时代周刊)

　　(解雨)

　　

免责声明：本文仅代表作者个人观点，与世界朋友网无关。其原创性以及文中陈述文字和内容未经本站证实，对本文以及其中全部或者部分内容、文字的真实性、完整性、及时性本站不作任何保证或承诺，请读者仅作参考，并请自行核实相关内容。